Why Dipping New Corals Matters
Every new coral that enters your tank is a potential vector for pests and pathogens. Even corals from reputable sources can carry hitchhikers — flatworms, nudibranches, Zoanthid-eating spiders, or bacterial infections that aren't visible to the naked eye. A proper dip and inspection before placing any coral in your display tank is one of the most important habits you can build as a reefer.
At Lakeside Reefing, our approach is simple: get new corals out of transport water as fast as possible, into a gentle dip for inspection and cleaning, and straight into the tank. Shipping water degrades quickly and prolonged exposure only adds stress.
Our Go-To Dip: Potassium Chloride
Our preferred dip is potassium chloride (KCl) — a gentle but effective solution that causes pests to release from coral tissue without the harshness of some commercial dips. It's particularly effective at dislodging:
- Flatworms
- Nudibranches (including Euphyllia-eating nudibranches)
- Zoanthid-eating spiders and other small arthropods
- Amphipods and other hitchhikers hiding in frag plugs or rock
Because it's gentle, it's suitable for sensitive corals like LPS and softies that might react poorly to stronger chemical dips.
What You'll Need
- Potassium chloride solution (we use 1-2 tablespoons per gallon of saltwater)
- A clean, light-colored container (makes pests easier to spot)
- Saltwater from your display tank or freshly mixed at matching parameters
- A flashlight or UV light
- Tweezers or a pipette for removing any pests you find
- A second container of clean tank water for rinsing
Step-by-Step: The Lakeside Reefing Dip Protocol
Step 1: Open and Remove Immediately
As soon as your coral arrives, open the bag and get it out of the shipping water. Don't float the bag, don't drip acclimate — the goal is to minimize time in degraded transport water. Discard the shipping water entirely; never add it to your tank.
Step 2: Straight Into the Dip
Place the coral directly into your prepared potassium chloride dip. Dip for 10–15 minutes, gently agitating the water every few minutes to encourage pests to release from the tissue.
Step 3: Inspect Carefully
This step is just as important as the dip itself. While the coral is in the dip (and after), inspect it closely:
- Use a flashlight or UV light to spot pests against the white container bottom
- Check the base of the skeleton, frag plug, and any crevices where pests hide
- Look for tiny white slugs (nudibranches), fast-moving spiders, or flat ribbon-like worms
- Remove any pests you find with tweezers before they can escape back onto the coral
Step 4: Rinse and Place
After the dip, give the coral a quick rinse in a container of clean tank water, then place it directly into your display tank. Start it in a lower-flow, lower-light area and move it to its final position gradually over 1–2 weeks as it settles in.
Tips by Coral Type
- LPS (Torch, Hammer, Octospawn, Acans): Potassium chloride is well-suited for these. Watch for Euphyllia-eating nudibranches at the base of the skeleton.
- Mushrooms and Softies: Generally hardy during dipping. Check for flatworms on the underside of the cap.
- Zoanthids: Inspect polyp-by-polyp for Zoanthid-eating spiders. They're tiny and fast — the flashlight is essential.
- SPS: Keep dip time on the shorter end (10 minutes). Inspect the base and branches carefully for nudibranches or flatworm egg clusters.
What to Watch for After Placement
Even after a thorough dip, keep an eye on new additions for the first week or two:
- Check at night with a flashlight — many pests are nocturnal
- Watch for tissue recession, unusual mucus, or a coral that won't open
- If you spot a pest after placement, remove the coral, re-dip, and inspect again
Shop Healthy Corals at Lakeside Reefing
All of our corals are carefully selected and packed for safe arrival. We stand behind the quality of every piece we ship — and we always recommend a dip and inspection as your first line of defense.